Issue 04· September 2026SearchPartners
Relax Explorer

Addresses we have been to

Destinations · France · Marseille

Pizzeria

Chez Étienne

No website, no telephone, no menu in translation — and the best lunch in Le Panier.

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Chez Étienne runs on its own rules: there is no phone to call and no booking to make, so you wait on the pavement with everyone else. What comes out is thin-based Marseille pizza with charred edges — the moit-moit, half cheese and half anchovy, is the order — and supions, small squid hard-fried with garlic and parsley.

It is the antidote to the quay-front tourist menu, and it sits in the middle of a Panier walk. Service days, hours and payment arrangements are unpublished here until confirmed.