La Mercerie

Set in a former fabric shop in Noailles, La Mercerie is one of the anchors of the city’s cooking revival: an open kitchen, short menus that follow the market, natural wine, and plating that takes itself seriously without the room doing the same.

For a reader who already knows the classics and wants the current city instead, this is the table — close enough to the Vieux-Port to walk, and to walk back.